Around the World with Artisans of Barossa

Artisans of Barossa is a group of seven individual wineries which share the common goal to protect and promote small batch, sub-regional winemaking. Its a great way to see the diversity of this internationally recognised region of South Australia. 

The Artisans were recently joined by Mark McNamara (previous executive chef at Appellation).  Mark also hosts the Long Lunches on Sundays, which is an indulgent way to enjoy what the region does so well – great food, sensational wines and outstanding views.

A new experience at Artisans of Barossa is the Global Village Feast every Friday night in June and July.  Drawing on the international travels of the Artisans winemakers and Mark McNamara , it brings hearty, flavoursome, and sustaining  food from around the globe back home to the Barossa. 

In a relaxed shared table environment, enjoy a different international food theme every week.  Ranging from Hong Kong, West Indian, Irish, American and naturally German. So get a table together and make a booking to share this Barossa experience.

 

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Masha: A new toy in the kitchen

Sometimes some of the basic things can be luxurious, with a little extra love.  Mashed potato can be such a fundamental part of everyday meals, and adding a few extras to it to really make it more indulgent.  And lets face it butter and cream make everything taste better.

Good mashed potato can just require a little bit of arm work, with a ricer or potato masher being the usual weapon of choice. So it was with interest that I learnt about the Masha and was keen to trial it.  The marketing material says it couldn’t be easier or more convenient.  And it is true to its label!  I found it so much quicker to mash vegetables, but also the clean up was a fraction of the normal time. Just pull apart and pop in the dishwasher.

From a foodie perspective the Masha doesnt overwork the potato, avoiding the gluggy mess.  And the special Rotor Cone presses vegetables through the mesh rather than cutting it. 

To trial it I selected two kitchen basics – Paris Mash and Babaganoush.

Paris Mash
600g potatoes  (eg Desiree, Sebago, or Coliban)
200g unsalted butter (yes – 200 grams!)
200ml milk

  1.  Place the wash unpeeled potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Use similar sized potatoes to ensure they cook at a similar speed. Add a teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil, then simmer for 25–30 minutes until cooked.
  2.  Drain and ensure all moisture has gone from the potatoes. They will look dry.
  3.  Peel the potatoes while warm and return to the pot.
  4.  Bring the milk to the boil.
  5.  Place the mash potato over low heat and add 50g of butter.  Using the Masha partially process.  Add 50 ml of milk and process until combined. Repeat until all of the butter and milk has been added and the mash is indulgently creamy. Season with salt to taste.
  6.  Serve immediately.

Babaganoush
1 large eggplant
1 glove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon of cummin (dry roasted and finely ground)
salt and peper to taste

  1. Chargrill the eggplant over BBQ coals, rotating it around until the skin is completely charred, about 15-20 minutes. Roast in a moderate oven until very soft. Let the eggplant cool.
  2. Peel the eggplant, cut into chucks and put in a bowl.  Process the eggplant with the Masha until smooth.
  3. Add minced garlic and cummin to the eggplant puree. Stir in the tahini, olive oil and lemon juice. Sometimes its necessary to add more lemon juice and tahini to get the desired balance in taste. Process again with the Masha if required. Season to taste.
  4. Place in a bowl to serve and drizzle with olive oil.

Disclaimer: Masha was provided by Prep to trial for this review.

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2009 Olivers Taranga Sagrantino

Sagrantino is an Italian variety from Montefalco in Umbria and many of you may have heard of it, however very few have seen it in Australia. Sagrantino has great adaptability to wine regions with windy, dry zones, with a preference for clayey-flinty soils- a perfect match for McLaren Vale vineyards around Seaview subregion.

Don and Margaret Oliver (5th generation of Olivers Taranga) travelled to Montefalco in 2006, after planting Sagrantino a year or so earlier. Apprehensively, they asked the locals their opinion on this variety and like all good Italians they answered to give this vine ‘time’ and have ‘patience’, reassuring them that they wouldn’t be disappointed with the wait.

Sagrantino is well known for being a tannic wine, due to the rich anthocyanins in the berry skins. Generally it should come with a warning on the label. That warning should be; “Lasciate ogne speranza, voi ch’intrate” your gums and cheeks shall never be the same.

So it was with trepidation that I started tasting the 2009 Oliver’s Taranga Sagrantino. It is a dark red ruby colour. On the nose it has a dark berry fruit, roast meat, almost soy /savoury character. With a delightful floral earthiness. The intensity of the aroma has you preparing your tastebuds. It has good acid, with dark morello cherries. And again that smoky chacuterie. I found it both herbal and spicy – a combination of dusty fennel seed, cardamom, sort of Indian spice. Both interesting and complex. This is definitely a full bodied wine, with quite a warm alcohol hit despite being 13.5%. While the tannins are abundant and grippy, they are fine and powdery in texture. What it lacks a little in length, it makes up for in upfront intensity.

I tasted this over several days to see how it would develop. The grippy mouthfeel does soften a little, and that spicy character becomes more meaty. During the tasting I was contemplating what to eat with this. It definitely requires food, a rich meaty ragu with smoky pancetta may be a good match. Or potentially even grilled venison marinated in red wine and juniper berries – if you’re game and love to play.

Alcohol 13.5%
RRP $40
Closure: Screwcap

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Gourmet Escape to Margaret River

Drop the name of Heston Blumental from Fat Duck, or Rene Redzepi from Noma in earshot of your local foodie and you’re sure to get their attention.

Margaret River Gourmet Escape have done just that and secured these two international foodie icons for their upcoming food and wine festival.  The Margaret River Gourmet Escape will be held on 22 to 25 November 2012, and is planned to be an annual event.

The high profile chefs, in addition to Australia’s Justin North, Kylie Kwong, Matt Stone of Greenhouse in Perth, and Dany Angove from Leewin Estate Winery in Margaret River will also be in attendance.  The Margaret River Gourmet Escape will feature masterclasses, pop-up restaurants, cooking demonstrations, and meet the winemaker sessions.

The Gourmet Village will be the centre of the festival, set in the iconic Leeuwin Estate.  It will be the heart of events with more than 100 Western Australia based premium exhibitors, local vineyards, and gourmet producers.  Naturally it will be a great opportunity to also showcase some of the sensational wines of Western Australia.

Other satellite events will include long table lunches amongst the vines, a beach barbecue hosted by a high profile chef, as well as other wine, trade and produce events throughout Margaret River.

It’s certain to be a great opportunity for foodies and wine lovers to indulge.   For more information on the Margaret River Gourmet Escape.

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#GrenacheDay 2012 – Celebrating South Australia Grenache

So, I admit to being tighter than a scared ducks posterior. But you have got to love well-made wines at a great price.  Weather it be Riesling, Semillon, or Grenache there’s plenty to love from some under-rated grapes.

Grenache, or Garnacha as it is referred to in its original home of Spain, is one of the most widely planted red grape varieties in the world.  It requires very warm, and dry conditions to ripen. Generally you will find Grenache wines to range from medium to fuller bodied.  They can show a lovely sweet spice character with red fruit/ berry flavours and complement a range of food without dominating.

Grenache is the leading variety in most Southern Rhône wines, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Here in Australia, Grenache is often overshadowed by the powerhouse variety, Shiraz. It is not uncommon to find Grenache blended with other varieties, such as Shiraz and Mourvedre and it is in the South Australian warmer regions of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale that Grenache is most consistently found to be of fantastic quality.  It can also be used in some sensational rose’s or as a fortified wine. For an early history of Grenache in South Australia check out Philip White’s blog. Below are a couple of Grenache table wines which we enjoyed this International Grenache Day.

2010 Oliver’s Taranga Grenache

Sourced from McLaren Vale fruit from a great recent vintage, and part of a select few in the Cadenzia project to promote McLaren Vale Grenache. On the nose it shows gorgeous floral perfume characters and with a slight earthy/forest floor background.  Red fruits and cherry characters are dominant with the typical sweet spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper.  On the palate it is medium bodied, with wild strawberry/cherry characters following through. The pleasant spicy character is mirrored again, adding to the complexity. The palate is soft and round with supportive tannins, but recommended drinking would be #GrenacheDay 2012!

Olivers Taranga Grenache

RRP $30
Alc 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Sample: Provided by producer
www.oliverstaranga.com.au 

2006 Turkey Flat Grenache

Sourced from 100 year old Barossa bush vines in the Bethany subregion.  While not their current release it’s good to be able to see an older style Grenache.  Quite a funky, earthy character on the nose, with good intensity of dark cherries.  Nice subtle roasted meats and a herbal quality in the background. On the palate very soft medium bodied, with raspberry and red fruit dominating. Subtle sweet spice and fennel seed, with good lingering finish.  This would match rosemary studded roast lamb with a mint jelly. Could possibly cellar for another few years if you would like that earthy/funky character to develop more.

Turkey Flat Grenache

Turkey Flat Grenache

 

RRP $25 (current release price)
Alc 15%
Closure: Screwcap
Sample: Personal cellar
Ratings: Robert Parker 90pts, Campbell Mathinson 91pts, James Halliday 91pts

 

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Tasting Note: 2012 Turkey Flat Rose

For a wine that is consistently alarmingly drinkable the Turkey Flat Rose has always been a winner.  While many a Barossa Rose will be based on Grenache grapes, the Turkey Flat Rose is a vineyard blend of Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet and Dolcetto – just to add a little more grip to the mouthfeel.

With a good whiff of bright red fruit, you think this is going to be another sweet teenage girls drink, but far from the truth. It’s less than 5g/litre residual sugar – so pretty much dry.   This is full of fruit sweetness and hints of floral.  With a nice spicy white pepper touch thrown in.  On the palate it’s packed full of red fruit, with good acidity to keep it crispy clean, and a refreshing watermelon liveliness.  This would be perfect at about 3pm on a sunny afternoon eating freshly grilled thai prawns by the poolside – but that’s how I roll.

2012 Turkey Flat Rose

RRP $25
Alc 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Sample: Provided by producer

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Tasting Note: 2011 Twelftree Grenache Rose

With an aroma packed full of strawberry and dried rose petals this isnt a Rose  for wimps.  You can definitely see the Two Hands Wines approach here, although they are completely separate labels.  A pleasant candy/confectionery note will draw you in.  This is echoed again on the palate, with more dark berry and ripe cherry fruit sweetness but still very dry.

Two things set the Twelftree Rose aside; it’s probably more textural than other Rose’s and has good mouthfeel and a hint of creaminess.  The alcohol was noticeable on the finish, and would necessitate a gutsy pizza to counteract it.

Barossa Rose

Twelftree Barossa Rose

RRP $25
Alc 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Sample: Purchased from Two Hands Wines Cellardoor
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Foodies Bucket List for Barossa

If you are visiting Barossa you will find a broad range of wine experiences.  But on the foodie side of things there is probably a more limited range of recommended experiences available.  With most locals being great home cooks, and making and preserving food very much a way of life in the valley there seems to be a shortage of sensational restaurants in the Barossa.  Below are a few recommended places which help to tell the Barossa story. We have visited each multiple times, and while every restaurant has its off days with food or service, these are a few we would recommend.

Appellation – Marananga

Appellation is the in-house restaurant for The Louise, although you don’t need to be a guest to dine there.  The degustation menu is strongly recommended and arriving early and hungry is beneficial.  The wine list is definitely one of South Australia’s best and most comprehensive.  The menu is designed around the best locally sourced ingredients, and changes daily.  But best of all, the dishes are designed to showcase the matching wines.  Although Mark McNamara (previous Exec Chef) is no longer there the team now headed by Ryan Edwards still deliver an outstanding experience.

Ferment Asian – Tanunda

Running a restaurant in a wine region like Barossa requires soothing locals, visitors, and winemakers. Ferment Asian has struck a nice balance in providing fresh modern Vietnamese dishes which you probably wouldn’t prepare at home, and a winelist which doesn’t gouge the patrons.  Owner Grant Dickson (of Rockford Wines fame) has coordinated a wide-ranging wine list full of domestic and international treasures.  Definitely worth seeking out.

Ferment Asian in Tanunda

1918 – Tanunda

1918 is set in an old villa of a Tanunda mayor (built in 1918). It has a menu with an Asian and sometimes middle-eastern influence – best described as modern Australian.  This makes the menu at 1918 interesting and the dishes full of complex flavours.  I’ve had some of my best dishes here, but also some of my most underwhelming – but worth the adventure.

1918 Restaurant in Tanunda

Vintners – Angaston

The haunt for many a local winemakers and home of the long lunch.  A Barossa institution with an eclectic and sometimes variable menu, with a regular Asian influence.  Many items are made inhouse – eg cured salmon, sausages, etc and they are loyal supporters of local producers (and winemakers).

Barossa Valley Cheese Co

If you have a penchant for stinky cheeses then Barossa Valley Cheese Co is worth a visit.  Producers of soft goat’s milk and cow’s milk cheese, with milk coming from local herds.  They usually have a selection available for tasting, which is recommended, to see how mature and flavoursome they are on the day of purchase.

Le Petite Prince wash rind goats cheese

Barossa Valley Cheese

 

 

 

 

 

Mt Pleasant Farmer Market

Barossa Farmers Market - Saturday 7:30 to 11:00. Angaston

A diverse range of producers, all from within the Barossa area.  Stall holders vary depending upon the season and availability, but regularly include smallgoods makers, butchers, bakers, locally roasted coffee, olive oil producers, fruit and vegetable producers, etc.  All very down to earth.  The standard breakfast fare is a free range egg and bacon roll.

Barossa Farmers Market

Fresh vegetables

Mt Pleasant Farmers Market – Saturday 8:00 to 12:00 Mt Pleasant

Somewhat more bucolic than the Barossa market, the Mt Pleasant market has a broad range of excellent fruit and vegetables.  A number of stalls selling various homemade pies and pastries, various Greek indulgences, wines, and olive oils.  You wont find any big-city overly priced ‘gourmet’ frivolities here.

Cupcakes at Farmers Market

Maggie Beers Farm Shop

No visit to Barossa would be complete without a visit to Maggie Beers Farm Shop.  Whether it’s for a light lunch or to stock up on various gourmet goodies, it is almost a pilgrimage for some people to visit the store.  Set overlooking the lake and surrounded by orchards it’s an ideal spot to pause for a coffee.  It is very popular, especially on the weekends, and the coach loads arriving can sometimes detract from its idyllic nature experienced in quieter times.  But I imagine they used to say that about the Hajj pilgrimage as well.

Maggie Beers gourmet goodies

So what other great foodie experiences would you recommend in Barossa?

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Tasting Note: 2009 Turkey Flat Cabernet Sauvignon

Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon is often the forgotten wallflower, while everyone is checking out the Shiraz hottie in the centre of the room.

The long awaited 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon from Turkey Flat, show typical restrained style which I love across their portfolio. Not an overripe, super extracted style much to my relief. You can tell its Cabernet with just a hint of herbaceous/tomato leaf on the nose. Sometimes I find this not that attractive in the variety but here it’s well balanced by juicy red fruit, and an intriguing earthiness. Pretty violets adds to the mix.

The palate shows nice acid balanced with rich dark fruit, which makes me think it could be a 10-15 year proposition. This was tasted just at release, but the tannins were fine and soft. Again the same aroma characters are present on the palate; spicy cinnamon and liquorice, rich cocoa powder, with that savoury edge that lingers unremittingly.

Sometimes it’s the forgotten ones you have to watch.

2009 Turkey Flat Cabernet Sauvignon

RRP: $40
Only 500 cases produced
Alcohol: 14.5%
Scores: James Halliday 94pts Tyson Stelzer 93pts
Sample provided by producer

 

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Tasting Note: Yalumba’s 2006 Fromm Vineyard Shiraz

Part of a range of single vineyard Shiraz from Yalumba, which is always a great way to discover the subtleties of the well known Barossa region.  This wine is from Lyndoch in the southern part of Barossa Valley. The vines were planted in 1935.  The area around Lyndoch is the lowest in the Valley and one of the earlier to ripen.  Typical of this region there is a rich ripe unctuousness to the wines.

In appearance the Yalumba’s Fromm Vineyard Shiraz looks like one serious shiraz. Aromas of ripe red and dark fruit, with hints of very dark chocolate and a slight savoury edge. In the mouth this is definitely a soft and succulent wine – typical of the Lyndoch area.

Sweet dark and brooding fruit upfront, with layers of mocha and vanilla, probably from the oak (43% new French oak 22 months, 57% older American oak). An interesting subtle savouriness, almost of roast meats at the finish. And a sensational length too. Fine powdery tannins support the finish. Definitely a fine example from the Lyndoch sub-region.

At once this is both a gutsy and an elegant wine. Sort of Mike Tyson is a velvet smoking jacket.

Yalumba’s 2006 Single Site Fromm Vineyard Shiraz

RRP $59.95
Alc 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Scores: James Halliday 95pts, Tyson Stelzer 95pts, Campbell Mattinson 94pts
Sample: Provided by producer

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